Brac, Croatia: Days Two to Four

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Beach vacations are restorative. Time slows down to a crawl and I am more aware of the rhythms of nature. Over three days in Brac, I wandered to different coves from one extreme of Supetar to the other: one was family-oriented with water slides, one had lots of people playing with beach balls in the water, another was quiet and wide for swimming, another had a reef with abundant underwater life for snorkeling, and yet another was isolated and quiet.

Eventually, I found a path that traced along a stone wall by the sea. There was little noise except the cacophony of cicadas in the pine groves.

I bought 1/2 kilo of the sweetest golden figs for less than two bucks from an old lady selling in front of her place. Other homes had bluish purple plums, grapes, bright persimmons, and plump pomegranates hanging from trees in their yards.

We walked uphill to another sleepy town, Mirca, half an hour away. There are hiking trails from town along olive groves.

The standout meal amongst the tourist fare was tucked away in the old town. Konoba Gusti Mora serves fresh, local fare in an outdoor patio beneath grape vines. We had Brac (pronounced bratch) cheese, a dry, sheep’s milk cheese with a distinctive nutty flavor. I also had soup from island Brac, a rich, flavorful lamb stew.

Then we took the ferry back to Split, and a bus ride in the dramatic countryside to Sarajevo. It took eight hours to travel about 200 miles.

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