We flew out of Berlin Schonenfeld to Split, took a bus into town and stayed at an AirBnB, then took the ferry the next morning to Brac. Like Split, the old town is built of limestone, the streets are narrow, and outdoor cafes face the cerulean Adriatic Sea.
The water is calm and brisk, with more bathers than swimmers. The beach is made of white rocks, so I might have to relent and buy water shoes. These trifold, one inch thick foam mats, decorated with sea-inspired cartoons of mermaids and dolphins, are popular. Every few dozen people, someone sports a t-shift emblazoned with NYC, where I live, or California, where I used to live. People smoke outdoors, which surprised me since I rarely encounter smokers anymore at home.
I had grilled calamari in a caramelized balsamic for lunch at Fast Food Jure. For dinner, a rich scampi risotto at Konoba Lukin. Later, I had a hazelnut ice cream. The Italian influence from across the sea is apparent on menus, from pastas and gnocchi to espresso and gelato. We tried vibrant local olive oils and a berry liquor at a kiosk in Supetar. There are abundant olive trees, lime trees, and golden figs that burst with sweetness. I learned that the local specialties include lamb and cheese, but have yet to try them.
There’s no Internet access at the AirBnB, and I decided to take a cue from European holidays and disengage from work email entirely, so things are definitely slowing down.